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Seed
Care
Think
Tree
I know what you are thinking. A page dedicated to seeds? I thought you
just opened the packet and stuck them in dirt. Well you are right, and
you are wrong. I had good success for a long time doing just that. Or
so I thought.
I was getting about an 80% germination rate, and grew many good plants
with this method. Then, with a little knowledge, and courage. I found
out how to germinate up to a week faster, and have hardier, stronger
plants.
What's the secret? It's easy! Think Tree.
You should try to understand the life cycle of your chosen tree. This
is good knowledge for you and will help you take better care of your
bonsai.
Germination
Other than sticking them in dirt, there are two methods that I found
to be useful. Stratification and Scarification.
Stratification - the process of freezing and thawing your seed in order
to germinate them.
Scarification - using an emory board, or sandpaper to scratch the hard
coat of some seeds in order to make germinating them easier.
* Many hard-coated seeds, such as hawthorn, hornbeam,
pine and maples, actually need a period of cold before
they can germinate. Some even need to be frozen for several
weeks. This process of freezing and thawing is called stratification
and is a natural mechanism designed to prevent early-shed
seeds from germinating in autumn, only to be killed off
during the following winter.
*
Seeds of some species, especially hawthorn (crataegus
spp.) and hornbeam (carpinus betulus) may take two
years or more to germinate. The shells of these seeds
are exceptionally hard and durable, and need this
time to degrade sufficiently for the root and cotyledons
to be able to burst through. Scarification of these
seeds is essential if you don't want to wait 2 years.
*
Collect seeds of field maple (Acer campestre) or
Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) in autumn and keep
them in a paper bag until the middle of January.
Then put them in a polythene bag with a handful of
dry sand, seal the bag and pop it in the fridge.
Within a few weeks most of the seeds will germinate
and they can then be potted up and gradually hardened
off ready to be put outside in spring. This way your
seedlings will get off to a good start in their first
crucial year.
*
Sow acorns and other large fleshy seeds as soon as
they are ripe. Such seeds are designed to be distributed
by birds and animals who bury them in soil or leaf
litter and then forget where they put them which
explains how species with heavy seeds, such as oaks
and chestnuts, appear spontaneously great distances
from the parent trees. Allowing fleshy seeds to dry
out before sowing will render them unviable.
Storage
Storing seeds is really a simple subject. But I never can get over how
many people ruin good seeds. So here are my thoughts on storing seed.
Seeds must be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. The perfect example
of such a place is your sock drawer. Think of it. The drawer is usually
closed, so it's dark. This also keeps it cool, and since no-one likes
putting on soggy socks, it is usually dry too. There you have it. If
you can store socks there, you can store seeds.
What this means is...don't store your seeds in the garage. Or the utility
room. Or the shed. Inside your house there is less humidity. There is
also less temperature fluctuation. Any drawer is a safe bet. Just avoid
storing seeds under sink cabinets because moisture can collect there.
Especially in older homes.
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