Scattered, Smothered and Covered |
10 years or so ago, I would allow myself to eat at greasy spoons like Waffle House. They have terms for the ways to order their hash browns. Scattered, smothered, and covered.
Well, I feel scattered, smothered and covered lately.
Bringing high quality bonsai trees back to Dallas Bonsai Garden has been a boon to business in more ways than one! We have had little time to focus on anything other than shipping orders.
Still, I owe it to you to let you know about this month’s specials and give you this month’s information courtesy of the John Naka Family.
I think we are about to unbury ourselves, and we can return to our regularly scheduled email times.
This month we have added new varieties of bonsai to our ever growing selection. We have added: Pinus Parviflora Glauca, Juniper Procumbens Nana, Pinus Mugo, Juniper Chinensis “Shimpaku,” Japanese Larch, Dwarf Hinoki Cypress, and Japanese Azalea Chinsan.
Peruse them at your leisure. They are beautiful!
Click here to see all of the bonsai trees!
Our new monthly Bonsai tips are brought to you, by special arrangement, courtesy of the John Yoshio Naka Family. You can find the full year’s guide and a whole lot more in the book Bonsai Techniques I by John Naka. We have both of Mr. Naka’s books, Bonsai Techniques I and Bonsai Techniques II, available for immediate purchase.
Most bonsai begin their growth cycle during this month, and consequently require more care and attention than when they were dormant. Also, like February, March is a month of possible extremes in temperature, and if these occur, extra care is in order.
Location: By now, all bonsai that have been kept in storage or a sheltered place should be brought out in the open where they can receive more sunlight. Especially the deciduous trees which up to now have shown no new sprouts.
If the weather turns unseasonably warm at this time, any tender new growth may become sunburned, and it would be better to place the bonsai in partial shade until the new growth is hardened a bit. However, it should not be kept in the shade too long during this stage or the new growth will become too long and get weak ad spindly. Do not place the bonsai too close to each other on growing bench. Trees should be well spaced so the branches will not touch each other and grow freely.
Watering: The general rules of watering apply during this month, but special attention should be given to deciduous bonsai. Most of them will be in a period of extreme growth, and that, in conjunction with the warmer weather, will exhaust the moisture in their pot far more quickly than otherwise would be the case.
It is during these early spring months that one can control the growth of bonsai by the judging and withholding of water. It is risky, however, and one should be quite familiar with each bonsai before trying this method. After the tree has been allowed to dry just enough to wither the tips of the new sprouts, put in a shady place, and do not water the soil. In the evening give the foliage a light overhead sprinkling with a mist spray. The following morning the soil may be watered as usual. Over watering this month can cause dead branches and twigs in the summer.
Trimming and Pruning: The flowering and fruiting bonsai will be in bloom by now. After 80% of the buds have blossomed, remove all flowers and remaining buds from the branches of any flowering tree. This will prevent the tree from dissipating too much of its strength in blooms. Do the same with any fruiting trees, except a few blossoms may be left on to form fruit for decorative purposes. The berries may be left on.
Any long sprouts which have destroyed the planned bonsai shape should be cut back now by leaving two or three buds if they are firm and strong. Premature pruning of these will only cause them to die.
Fertilizing: March is still too early to fertilize with usual nitrogenous fertilizers. If the past months have be scanty rainfall, the soil in the pots will probably be quite alkaline from salts built up after so much tap water. This now can be neutralized by such additives as soil sulphur and iron tone. Those bonsai, among whose characteristics is vivid autumn leaf color ( maple, ginkgo, oak, elm, sumac), should also be given these additives. Alkaline soil tends to lessen the colors in the leaves of the trees. If the rainfall caused more acid soil, apply wood-ash or gypsum lime to sweeten it.
Transplanting: Generally the period between March and June is the best time to transplant, replant or change soil. Of course, no two species are alike, not for that matter are any two individuals of the same species, but a good rule of thumb to follow is: change the soil or transplant a little late than too early on most deciduous trees as well as pine, juniper, and cypress. It is better to wait until later before disturbing roots on cedar, spruce, hemlock, fir, larch, yew and podocarpus. Transplanting from one pot to another is generally done for aesthetic reasons, but soil changing is necessary for the health of a bonsai. Rapidly growing deciduous bonsai should have its soil changed annually. Very fast growers like willow and tamarix may need it twice a year, once in late spring and again in late summer. The slower growing conifers and evergreens may not need their soil changed more that three or five years.
However, the best indicator of a need for soil change is not time, but the condition of the bonsai. A vigorous, healthy bonsai does not need its soil changed and should not be disturbed. Soil changing invariably brings about new problems in the culture of a particular bonsai. New shoots appear which may spoilt a planned shape; growth stimulation from the new soil may result in over long needles or too large leaves; an aged looking trunk may even lose it appearance of antiquity. It is best to change soil when it is required for the health of the bonsai.
Cutting: Still a good time for cuttings, especially any large branches of plum, pomegranate and willow.
Grafting: This is the best time to start grafting deciduous trees.
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