This month, Michael Miller dusts off his pencil and writes an article on the rules of Bonsai. I think it's good to be open minded, and he has a point. See what you think.

You know, obviously tropicals like Schefflera and Ficus can be shaped to look like any tree, but maybe Mike has a point about miniature specimen trees.

Otherwise, we are humming along at Dallas Bonsai Garden. It seems like everyone in the country is preparing for summer ... and the summer heat.

I have thought long and hard about the rules of bonsai. There are rules for almost every aspect of the bonsai. These rules specify what a Bonsai tree is supposed to look like and what can and cannot be done.

For instance:

• The bonsai can never be placed in the exact center of the pot.
• The trunk should lean slightly.
• The trunk should flare at the bottom and the roots should radiate from the flare.
• Branches should not cross the line of the trunk.
• Branches should not come toward the viewers viewpoint (foreshortening)
• The first branch should be one-third up the tree so that the upper two-thirds of the tree have branches and the lower third is bare.
• The branches should alternate left then right up the tree.
• The pot should be a certain thickness depending upon the radius of the tree.
• Etc, etc, etc.

All of these rules! There are a hundred or more. Are the rules accurate? Maybe. Are they necessary? I don’t think so.

When we create a bonsai, what are we trying to do? Follow rules? No. We are trying to make a specimen tree in miniature. Let me say that again. We are trying to make a SPECIMEN tree in miniature!

Unless you live in the desert, I know you have seen couple trees in your lifetime. Have you ever seen a tree that had branches near the base of the tree? I have! Here in Atlanta, Magnolias come to mind. Almost every old Magnolia I see has branches very close to the ground, if not touching the ground. In fact, it would be odd to see a magnolia with one-third of its trunk bare. Lodgepole pines, on the other hand, have long trunks and only have a little vegetation at the very top. I’d estimate that only one-eighth of the top of this type of tree has branches and needles.

Every species of tree has a different look and has different growth characteristics. A dogwood looks different from a cherry and a maple and an oak. There are similarities, but there are also differences. As the French say: Viva la difference!

I have seen some trees that look just like a Japanese painting. Gorgeous! Yet, they look more like topiaries than trees. You see, in my opinion, there is a difference between stylized trees that look like the ancient trees in Japanese paintings and a tree you see in the wild.

Where many people are placing stringent rules upon what a bonsai is and is not, I accept all styles as bonsai. In fact, if I had to place rules on the art, I would only have this statement:

A Bonsai should look like a miniature specimen tree in a pot.

Yes, I know this opens the door too wide for some who are more dedicated to the old ways. But to me, if it doesn’t look like a tree, it’s missing the point.

Our new monthly Bonsai tips are brought to you, by special arrangement, courtesy of the John Yoshio Naka Family. You can find the full year’s guide and a whole lot more in the book Bonsai Techniques I by John Naka. We have both of Mr. Naka’s books, Bonsai Techniques I and Bonsai Techniques II, available for immediate purchase.

By now all healthy bonsai will be in full foliage, and the new growth will be well established.

Location: Do not forget to continually rotate the position of each bonsai in relation to the direction of the sun. There will be many days of hot sun during June so guard against sunburn. A safe rule would be to change the deciduous bonsai from full sun to partial shade every ten days to two weeks. Some leaf edges and tips may burn, but the sacrifice is worth it in terms of a healthier bonsai.

Watering:The general rules for watering apply during June except that more frequent watering may be needed as the weather grows warmer. On very dry days, and most days in June will be dry, it is a good idea to water down everything in the vicinity of the bonsai. Soak the benches, ground, trees, and lath overhead. Use a fine nozzle and spray all the foliage on the bonsai and any shrubbery around them. Anything that will increase the humidity will help. Do not be fooled by high humidity, trees and soil will dry out more than expected. Leach out the water pollution by extra heavy watering. It will not harm the trees during this season if the drainage is good.

Trimming and Pruning: June is the month for defoliating.

Shaping:New shoots on deciduous trees that have grown long and vertical may now be trained into horizontal branches. Do it by tying down the branches. Do not attempt to wire new green shoots that are soft and tender. This is an awkward time to wire or train branches because there is too much foliage, unless the defoliating method is used.

Fertilizing:June is the month to feed all rapid growing deciduous trees except fruiting, flowering and berry trees. Conifers should be fed sparingly.

Transplanting: It is a good time to transplant, especially pine and Satsuki azaleas.

Budding: A good month to do budding.

Notes: In order to develop a stronger and more compact bonsai the following elements should be kept in mind:

1. Sun
2. Water
3. Air
4. Soil
5.Natural nutrients

A method called "The Spartan Training" should be applied. That is: a bonsai should not be "babied" by over watering, over fertilizing, keeping in a shady place, not trimming because of fear, and, in general, overdoing and one good thing.

B37 Bonsai Techniques I by John Naka [an error occurred while processing this directive]